In memory of Jack Brown… I didn’t know Jack very well, I ran into him a lot while I was running…I would see him out walking every day, checking the waves. I would stop and we would chat about surfing. I once asked if I could take his portrait in black and white film, and he smiled and said, “lets do it another day”. Jack didn’t want his photo taken…he didn’t seem to want the legend that came with him. What I DO know is that he was and is what surfing and riding the waves is all about. He is known around here for being the legendary Jack Brown, the hero to so many, the surfer that surfed as many years as he could. I’m told he surfed into his 80s. He always had a smile, so much love in his eyes. He told me once he never understood the “surfing egos” that exist out in the water. His love was purely for the waves. No rivalries, no cliques, no negativity, just being in the water and bringing others to it. I have one of Jack’s old boards which I call “Jack the wavecatcher”. I’m not sure if he would approve of all these celebrations in his honor, the fuss that was made around him, or even me showing these photos of the memorial done in his honor by the surfers of our community, but we lost a great man, and its worth mentioning.